A clean-looking car can hide a hard past: a salvage title, flood damage, a rolled-back odometer or an unrepaired safety recall. Checking the history takes less than an hour and can save you thousands. This guide shows what to check, where, and what the reports cannot tell you.
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Key takeaways
- Start with the VIN: it is the key to every history check.
- Use the federal vehicle history system and an open-recall check first, then consider a paid report.
- Look for salvage, flood, odometer and ownership red flags, and match the paperwork to the car.
- A report is not an inspection: always have an independent mechanic check the car.
In this guide
What is a VIN and where do I find it?
Short answer The VIN, or Vehicle Identification Number, is a 17-character code unique to each car. Find it at the base of the windshield on the driver's side, on a sticker in the driver's door jamb, and on the title, registration and insurance papers. Make sure all of them match the car.
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is a 17-character code unique to each car. You can usually find it at the base of the windshield on the driver's side, on a sticker inside the driver's door jamb, and on the title, registration and insurance papers. Check that the numbers match each other and match the car. If they do not, walk away.
Always ask the seller for the VIN before you travel to see a car. On Motor Mania Club the VIN is shown on many listings, and you can ask the seller for it through the listing.
What does a vehicle history check show?
Short answer A history check pulls together records such as title brands (salvage, junk, rebuilt), reported odometer readings, insurance total-loss records, the number of owners and states, and in paid reports, accidents, service records and open recalls. No single source has every record.
A history check pulls together records about the car's past. Depending on the source, it can show:
- the title history, including salvage, junk or rebuilt brands
- reported odometer readings over time
- insurance total-loss records
- the number of previous owners and the states where it was titled
- in paid reports, reported accidents, service records and open recalls
No single source has every record. Accidents that were never reported to an insurer or a repair shop will not appear.
Where can I check the history for free or at low cost?
Short answer Start with the federal National Motor Vehicle Title Information System, whose approved providers sell low-cost reports with title, odometer and total-loss data. Paid commercial reports can add accidents and service records, and comparing more than one source helps.
Start with the federal source: the National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS), which lists approved providers that sell low-cost reports with title, odometer and total-loss data. The Federal Trade Commission also explains what to check on its used cars page.
Paid reports from commercial providers can add reported accidents and service records. Some dealers include one for free. Compare more than one source if you are serious about a car, because each one holds different records.
How do I check for open safety recalls?
Short answer Enter the VIN on the NHTSA recalls page to see safety recalls that have not been repaired on that exact car. Recall repairs are free at a franchised dealer, so an open recall is a reason to negotiate or ask the seller to fix it.
Enter the VIN on the NHTSA recalls page. It shows recalls that have not been repaired on that exact car. Recall repairs are free at a franchised dealer for the make, so an open recall is a reason to ask the seller to fix it, or to negotiate, rather than a reason to panic.
What are the main red flags?
Short answer Be careful with salvage, junk or rebuilt titles, signs of flood damage such as a musty smell or silt under the carpets, an odometer that does not add up, many owners in a short time, and paperwork that does not match the car or the seller.
Take a closer look, or walk away, if you see any of these:
- Salvage, junk or rebuilt title: the car was once declared a total loss. A rebuilt car can be legal to drive, but it is worth less and can be hard to insure or resell.
- Flood damage: a musty smell, silt or rust under the carpets and seats, fogged lights, or corrosion in unusual places. Flood-damaged cars can develop electrical faults months later.
- Odometer that does not add up: a mileage lower than the last reading in the history, or heavy wear on the pedals and seats that does not fit the mileage.
- Many owners in a short time: or a car moved through several states quickly, which can be a sign of title problems.
- Paperwork that does not match: a different VIN, a seller who is not the owner on the title, or a title "in transit".
What can a history report not tell me?
Short answer A report lists records but does not look at the car. It cannot show unreported damage, poor repairs, worn parts or the current mechanical condition, so use it as a first filter and pay an independent mechanic to inspect the car.
A report lists records; it does not look at the car. It cannot show unreported damage, poor repairs, worn parts or the current mechanical condition. Treat the report as the first filter, then pay an independent mechanic to inspect the car. Our guide on finding a reliable mechanic explains how to choose one.
What should I do if the history shows a problem?
Short answer Ask the seller to explain it and to show repair records. If the answer is weak or changes, move on. If you still want the car, use the problem to negotiate the price and put the agreement and any promises in writing.
Ask the seller to explain it, and ask for repair records. If the seller cannot explain it, or the story changes, move on to another car. If you still want the car, use the problem to negotiate the price, and get the agreement and any promises in writing. Our guide on buying a used car safely covers the full checklist, including payment and paperwork.
Sources and further reading
- NMVTIS: National Motor Vehicle Title Information System
- NHTSA: Check your vehicle for recalls
- FTC Consumer Advice: Used cars
How this guide was prepared
This guide is written from official and industry sources, which are listed above, and checked against how Motor Mania Club works. We aim to review our guides every few months and change the date when something is updated.
This guide gives general information and is not legal, financial or mechanical advice. Rules differ by state, so check your state agency for the exact requirements.
About the author
Elie Haddad, Founder, Smart Net 360 and Motor Mania Club. Elie Haddad is the founder of Smart Net 360 and of Motor Mania Club, the US automotive marketplace and directory that connects dealers, parts suppliers, garages and car enthusiasts. 15 years in business management and a car enthusiast.
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